Mustards
The Romans most likely developed the prepared mustards we know today. They mixed unfermented grape juice, known as “must“, with ground seeds (called sinapis) to form mustum ardens, or “burning must”.
Löwensenf Bavarian mustard jar
There are many varieties of mustard, which vary in strength and flavour. Places known for their mustard include Dijon (strong) and Meaux in France, Norwich and Tewkesbury in the United Kingdom. There are variations in the subsidiary spices and in the preparation of the mustard seeds. The husks may be ground with the seeds, or winnowed away after the initial crushing; “whole-grain mustard” retains some unground or partially ground mustard seeds. Bavarian “sweet mustard” contains very little acid, substituting copious amounts of sugar for preservation. Sometimes prepared mustard is simmered to moderate its bite, sometimes it is aged.
Colman’s English Mustard jar
Dijon mustard is not covered by a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) or a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) under the auspices of the European Union; thus, while there exist major mustard plants in Dijon and suburbs, most Dijon mustard is manufactured outside of Dijon. Dijon mustard is simply a method of preparing ground mustard seeds, using brown mustard. Nor does “Dijon mustard” have an origin in medieval monasteries: in 1856, Jean Naigeon of Dijon substituted verjuice, the acidic “green” juice of not-quite-ripe grapes, for the older vinegar. Mustards are often prepared with some subsidiary spices like cloves, but in the past adulterants were so commonplace that in 1658 French law proscribed all mustard-making for sale except from certified makers.
Also available is whole grain mustard, where the seeds are not ground, but suspended whole in the other ingredients. Different flavours and strengths can be achieved by using different blends of mustard seed species. Some variations have other additives to create a more complex and rich flavour, such as sun-dried tomato mustard and chilli mustard.
Plochman’s Mustard bottle, 538g
Mustard is most often used as a condiment on meat, especially cold meats such as ham; the French like strong Dijon mustard with steak. It is also used as an ingredient in mayonnaise and vinaigrette, in marinades and barbecue sauce. Honey mustard is most often used as a topping for sandwiches and as a side for dipping french fries, onion rings, and other finger foods. It can also be used as a base for salad dressing when combined with vinegar and/or olive oil. Mustard is a popular accompaniment to hot dogs.
Popular brands of mustard are Amora and Maille (since 1747) in France; Colman’s (Jeremiah Colman, 1804) in the UK; and Heinz by H.J. Heinz Company (since 1870), Plochman’s (since 1852), French’s (Robert Timothy French, 1880), and Gulden’s (Charles Gulden, 1862) in the United States. In New Orleans Zatarain’s manufactures Creole mustard.
Mustard was not popular in American cooking until mild “mustard sauce” using white (actually yellow) mustard seeds, with some additional turmeric for bright yellow coloring, was made commercially available. “Honey Dijon”, which is made from the combination of Dijon mustard and honey, appeals in the U.S. to a national taste for sweetness in unexpected sources. In the U.S., very mild prepared mustard is often used as a condiment in combination with ketchup.
Mustard is generally sold in glass jars or plastic bottles. Any mustard which is stored for a long period of time is prone to separation, causing mustard water. Shaking a closed jar/bottle prior to opening is recommended.
The Mount Horeb Mustard Museum in Mt. Horeb, Wisconsin has the largest collection of prepared mustards in the world.
